Saulters in the {BIG} City: The goat slaughter (warning - some graphic descriptions and pictures!)

A few months ago I read a book called The Omnivore’s Dilemma. It’s a great book about where your food comes from, and really thinking about that when you’re in the grocery store and in your kitchen preparing your family’s meals. Each chapter focuses on a different part of your meal (corn which is in everything, meat, etc), and the final chapter talks about the “perfect meal” being one you forage, hunt, and prepare yourself. That way you know where everything comes from, what everything is made of, and what it takes to get the meal on your plate.

Today I had a front-row seat for watching where my dinner came from. As I’ve said before, there’s a big multidisciplinary UVA team here this week, and they’ve been working on collaboration with MUST (Mbarara University of Science and Technology). In Ugandan culture (and lots of other cultures) they official way to confirm a collaboration or agreement is with blood. So yesterday we confirmed our collaboration with the blood of a goat. Also we just really wanted to throw a BBQ party.

After coming back from our mini-safari at Lake Mburo, we discovered some butchers in our yard. We had heard earlier in the day that we would celebrate the last evening of the entire UVA team being here by having a good old fashioned Ugandan “goat roast” at our house. I assumed, just like my roasts at home, that we would pick up some meat from the market and start cooking. Apparently that’s not the case. A few minutes later, a car pulled up to our curb. The driver popped the trunk, and the bleating of two goats rang out. The goats were pulled out and delivered promptly to our back yard under a nice tree … along with a machete. You got it – the goats were going to be slaughtered AND cooked at our house. I began to get a little nauseous and tachycardic.

Remembering what I’d read in The Omnivore, I tried to pump myself up. Eventually I convinced myself that (1) when in Rome, you should do as Romans do and that (2) this would be a great chance to really appreciate where my meal came from and to see firsthand the sacrifice that an animal makes before it winds up as dinner on my plate.

(warning – graphic description below)

The two goats had their feet tied to keep them from running away. They were nice and calm after they were put under the tree, and I don’t think they knew what was coming. Or at least if they did, they seemed to accept it. The butcher stepped beside the first goat, flipped it over on its back, and with one swift motion sliced its throat straight through the great vessels. It was quick, and I don’t think the goat suffered. After it passed, it was immediately skinned, and then hung from the tree to let all the rest of the blood drain out while the butcher removed the organs. Since the blood was to celebrate the collaboration, my attending Dr Moore was asked to kill the next goat. Obviously as a muzungu he’s never done that before. But he stepped up and killed his goat as well. It was promptly skinned, organs were removed, and both goats were chopped up and landed on the coals.

I really thought it would bother me, but it didn’t. It was quick and seemed relatively painless for the animal. Afterwards we said some words of thankfulness for the goats’ sacrifice. I think I agree with Michael Pollan even more now, in that we don’t appreciate at all what goes into our food. It was moving to be present for the goats’ sacrifice, and I think it was definitely the meal I’ve appreciated most.

The meat roasted for several hours, alongside some African tilapia (scales, eyeballs and all), a few chickens and some plantains. We also had a nice tomato salad. While the food was cooking, folks starting showing up! Keep in mind, this was all done in our front yard. One of the attendings here who also owns a DJ business brought about 10 speakers and a DJ table. Of course the butchers had their grills and knives everywhere, and they also set up a giant tent with chairs in case it rained. Everyone mixed and mingled, and danced a lot! Those Ugandans sure can dance! I mostly watched and chatted with everyone. The food was finally served – the tomato salad was fresh and delicious, the tilapia was flaky, and the goat … was like a piece of rubber. The taste was good, though it was pretty much the taste of the charcoals, but it was so sinewy that I had a hard time eating it. I was hoping after watching all that it would have been the best meal of my life, but unfortunately it was not. A good time was had by all, and I think it turns out to be the best dinner party I’ve ever hosted! And surely I will never look at meat on my plate in the same way again.

I have some actual pictures of the goat, but those likely are not blog-appropriate. Instead I'll give you some pictures of the party!